Sunday, December 19, 2010

K is for Kudos to Kale and a Kaleidoscopic Future.

Positano, Italia (Campania) - October 2010


Ok.
So, have you been to a place where you wished could be your reality, everyday? Have you lived a life, which you wish you  could continue to live? Have you had fantasies of both, simultaneously? Did you get to have them fulfilled?

I recently returned from a span of my life where I had the extreme privilege to experience all of the above. And now, the extreme devastation of not having them currently, although 'tis better to have loved and lost, than never to have loved at all ' right?

This will be my greatest life recommendation: do it. Whatever it is you are thinking of doing, do it. Whatever age you find yourself at, whatever situation you are in now, if you haven't had this, go get your mind blown, considerably, and mostly by travel. From what I got to experience, it goes by far to quickly, and then your back, in reality; of work, stress, money, lack of time, and then you don't feel like the chance is available so soon again.
So, go get your socks rocked. By the world; by the air, the sky, the sea and the earth. Go eat the food of a grandmother and go taste the salt from the earth. Have stress in finding your train in a foreign language and have anxiousness of not knowing where to go next. Have the sand of the sea between your toes and the smell of spaghetti on your hands. Get your neck crinkled from having to look up all the time and wonder 'how did I get this lucky' and 'wow, why is the sky so blue here?'
It's out there, it's waiting. It wants to be seen, it wants to be treaded upon and spread you thin. Make you small. Make you emotional. Make you grow, exponentially.

Sorrento, Italia (Campania) - October 2010
And now I am back. Here in New York, as a new student of the world and not of anything specific, which I kind of like. Mostly though, I am a student, everyday, of cuisine. Today I ate an amazing salad of sunchoke, mushroom, raddiccio and pecorino. Just those simple ingredients were able to create a experience for me that brought me back to eating a small dish of roasted fresh porcini's from a garden in Reggio-Emilia.

Daily I am wrenched back to recognizing how lucky I was, and trust me, I soaked up every bit of lucky I could absorb. I got to taste and smell and touch and experience what it is to be 'Italian'. What it is to live in Europe. Ultimately, I am brought back to the quiet on the sea, the wind in my hair and the ease of a walk. I know how good life can be, and I know what pace to live my life now. Rushing and running? Neither are for me. Ease, is my new mantra, breath is my step.
Try it.
Isola Capri , Anacapri, Italia - October 2010

Now, with this kind of kaleidoscopic future I have created for myself, this inconstant, polychromatic, and ultimately fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants kind of attitude, I'd like to take a second to talk about Kale, and why, oh why, I love it so. First, Kale, raw, has only 33 calories in a cup (chopped), 2 grams of protein and 1 gram of fiber. That, is one amazing green, because not only does one cup house all of that protein power, but it also is an AMAZING source of  Vitamin C, Vitamin A and Vitamin K. K being a vitamin not found so plentiful in foods, so its important to get it where you can, while you can. It is the vitamin which helps to clot your blood. Sound essential? Uh, yeah. Not only that, but it can prove to be considerably rich in calcium and 2 other super powerful antioxidants, lutein and zeaxanthin. So eating this delicious, hearty and healthy green can lower your chances of DNA damage, i.e. cancer causing agents.

I have seen it being served up all over Manhattan/Brooklyn and the like and I couldn't be more on the band wagon. I see it on a menu, I usually order it. So, in regards to living your life with gusto, doing what feels so right, making your heart, body and mind happy, eat some kale and buy a plane ticket to the place of your dreams and don't look back. You'll be first healthier, and then happier, for it.
In the meantime (while your saving up that cash, or putting yourself into debt, like me!):
Try this simple kale recipe from a blogger which, I think, knows a thing or two about her greens:
Raw Tuscan Kale Salad - 101 Cookbooks
Crepe in the 5th Arrondissement, Paris, France - Delicious 
First of all, Cavolo Nero is unreal delicious, also called dinosaur kale, and this particular recipe will always remind me of eating the fresh leaves from a garden in Italy.
(More of my recipes to come... I just, really really love this one,because it is hard to improve upon it, maybe an anchovy melted into the olive oil in the dressing... also there is a REAL good one in the Tartine Bakery book, by Chef Ignacio Mattos.)
Enjoy!










Monday, August 30, 2010

J is for Just Plum forgot!

Saint Peters Basilica.
I think the Roman's and the Church had some money back in the day.
Gorgeous. 



Ciao tutti! (Hi everyone!)
I am alive, sorta.

I just realized that in under a month will be the 1 year anniversary of  The Cauliflower Lollipop!
How much this little "nutrition and food" based blog has grown. Well actually, not as much as this cultivator had hoped. I'm guessing blogs are a little like children. You must put in all of your effort to reap any rewards. So, my one year blog resolution: put in more effort. Thats that. Get ready to be bogged down, with blogness (probably not, I'm working 6 days a week 10 hour days currently. One of which is a 14 hour day, Sunday. Apparently even though this country is Catholic no rest for the weary in the kitchen on Sunday's, so maybe, you will only get mildly blogged. More like, a poco blogged).

Isla d'Elba on the beach of Sant 'Andrea. Wonderful. 
J is the letter for the post. Which can represent alot of things. The last J posting representing the many words I could conjure that began with J. This time, in a few short words, I will try to express what this J(oy) has been up to in the past few months, here in Italy.
Jealous yet? Aspeta (wait...)

I have traveled back and forth, up and down (as much as I can) on my days off. I have darted from Milian to Parma, to Cinque Terre, up to Torino. Down to Siena, and even further down to Isla D'Elba, to Florence, Peasaro and Ancona, to the Northern Veneto and Tuscan coast, Bolonga and Reggio nell'Emilia (where I currently live) Of course, Roma, just last weekend.

Tuna, cured in Olive oil from Sardegna, with picked Tropea
Onions, fennel, sprouts, lemon vinegrette... it goes on and on.
Eating, tasting, re-tasting (for quality control, this does not get old) my fair share of food. Cheese has taken my heart and gone off in a full sprint. Particularly fresh, or semi aged goat cheeses. Although, Castelmango, mamma mia. But, if you ever get a chance to come here, you have to go to region they make the cheese. Buy Burrata in Apulia, or Mozzarella di Bufula in Campania. It will be fresher the closer you are to the producer. As far as your life, consider it changed. No joke. The sweet smell of fresh cream and a taste as if kissed by milky gods.

On our many mini vacations I have had the privilege to dip into the Mediterranean Sea. Crystal blue, warm and justifiably one of the best bodies of water I have ever been in.  Isla d'Elba is a world all its own; green and lush, wild like Kawai, warm and sun ripened, Tuscan, but not quite so. Just go.

Lunch at the most amazing man's home in Romanga.
Later a cheesehole (Fossa) lesson. 
The Adriatic Coast where Le Marche meets the sea, Peasaro, Fanno and Ancona remind me a bit of the beaches of Rhode Island, a little rough around the edges, although lovely and different in their unique simplicity. There was one area we found which housed little beach "caves" in the mountain side. Families and friends gathered to play cards, swim, read and relax. My friends and I, to rejuvenate and regroup after long days at school.


Which brings me to school, if I could describe ALMA it would mostly be describing the outstanding professors. I know in my last post I touched upon them, but leaving for stage was hard because I wasn't going to wake up saying  "Alright, I have Bentley today, awesome" or "good, kitchen with Bruno, region Campania, score" sometimes "wine at 9:30 AM, gotta keep sharp for Matteo" and even, "Ok, Chef Paolo is teaching today, should be interesting..." and it was. Everyday was interesting. Everyday I learned something new, something brilliant and something worlds larger than myself.

Couches set up on the hill side in the Northern Veneto.
We would ride our bikes through the warm, thick air in the  Pianura Padana, the Po River Valley, down the road to our castle. While changing attempt to not begin sweating (some of my classmates referred to this time as suiting up for a game, as if changing into uniforms was the build up to a battle against the odds), grab an espresso and await the fate of the day. Will it be a tall hat day, a no apron day, a central kitchen day or a standing in the kitchen day. 


Summer here can be fondly thought of as infernal, since air conditioning is hard to come by, and the ALMA's remained broken for the 2 months we were attending. Sometimes we would see attempts being made to fix it, holes dug all over the grounds, only to be filled a few days later. It was assumed they were looking for some kind of electrical line. Nonetheless, the weather is similar to New York in the humidity level as well as temperature. Some days swelled to 1oo's (or above 40 Celsius as we can now recall it) but most of the time the Demo room and kitchen still remained a positive learning environment. Well, for me. 


We were able to share with each other. We talked, socialized, exchanged and became a small tight little family. Sometimes a little too tight, and just like all families, some had a fair share of squables. Although, most family arguments do not end in bus rides to Tuscany at 6 in the morning the following day to a winery and goat cheese farm with your Chef and a group of misfit American Chefs (also sanz air conditioning). 


Fresh Goat Cheeses from Santa Margarita Farms between Firenze
and Siena. ALL of them phenomenal. I have notes
on each one.  
But looking back now, having been away from school, from Colorno, from the little-tribe-that-could at ALMA Due, for only a month, I miss it. I knew I would. I miss coming home to a space bigger than a hotel room. I miss having my own stove, pots and pans. I miss the idea that I could walk down stairs and see friends  sitting on a couch eating chicken salad out of large pasta pots watching a pirated copy of Hot Tub Time Machine which had been sent in a box also including Frank's hot sauce (a highlight moment I must say). Upon seeing this, I would think nothing more to my self than 'I love those guys'. I miss that our 'dorms' fostered a profound sense of familiarity for me. Who knew I would miss Colorno?  Mostly, though, I miss my friends. 


Sun setting amongst Processo Vines in Valdobbiandene before
the feast of a lifetime. 





There are a plethora of memories I can take away from this, and I cannot wait to share them with you. Like, for example, how in Italy 'music' consists of 3 people on the radio, Madonna, Michael Jackson and Lady Gaga. Everyone in the kitchen waders about humming the tunes, pretending to know the lyrics to the songs and singing random giberish. Hilarious. Sometimes there is some Sting and Seal, but otherwise, solo Jackson and Gaga. Alejandro is mos-def a top fav for Italia. 


An obelisk in Roma, there are hundreds. 
More to come, but I have work in 40 minutes. Yesterday I deboned 5 rabbits, which is not an easy feat, amongst other tasks. Today I will cut the Zucca Cheesecake I made into little circles for our Piccola Pasticceria. 
I will work for 10 hours, standing the entire time, in my sweat. Toil. 
Attempt to speak Italian (which every day I get better at surprisingly), pretend to understand most of it, but actually understand quite a bit. 
Get in the weeds, and then get out of the weeds. Clean up, sweep, mop, eat delicious bread my chef makes.  
Feel like and outsider, and have a 16 year old Sicilian kid tell me what to do(at which point I have to control my eye rolling), and respond to him sarcastically in English (which he cannot understand) and love it. 


Must love it. And I do. I want this so badly.
Tuscan sand and the Mediterranean Sea. 
Check back for more quips. Also, recipes, lots of recipes...  



Tuesday, July 6, 2010

I is for Italia!

This is the town of Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre
After a few fast paced weeks here I I have discovered that this may be the land I belong the most.
Every turn I take, every product I taste, every single word I hear about quality of life and food, and actually adhering to that standard, causes a new well of happiness within my heart, and multiple times a day in fact. I am blessed to have gone to the first half of this culinary school adventure in New York City, and I do truly love the States. California will always be my home and my heart. My many trips to National Parks across the county; darting from North and South and East to West; I do miss my family and friends. Being here though, well (deep deep sigh...) it's another dream that I never thought possible and another stepping stone that gets me closer to my goals. Sometimes throughout the day I need to pinch myself. 
I never want it to be over. Can we make that happen please?


Every day for school, a la castle di ALMA here in Colorno, outside the beautiful city of Parma, we learn the history of the country, taught that food makes up the threads of our being (something I have been preaching for years), and are stressed to comprehend how to live a life in accordance to seasonality and freshness is of the utmost importance. We see and taste products that, for all intensive purposes, only exist here (trust me though, I have a list of items I want to try to smuggle back). There is basil that is only grown in Liguria, there is citrus that can't leave the island of Sardegna, there is cheese that everyone across the country agrees is the best Pecorino and you had better not mess with it, in fact even the Radiccio is preciously preserved by the Slow Food movement. I mean, come on, if you know me at all, you must know how much that makes my heart swell with happiness. 
Sunset in Levanto.

I have never eaten so well on a regular basis. Not even just rich and luxurious items like fois gras or lardo, although I have had some seriously rich food, more on that later, but even the peppers taste better here. The zucchini has a quality to it which I cannot quite describe. The sapore of each piece of produce is incomparable to anything I have tried thus far. I think I have probably eaten my weight in Cherries from the Veneto region, which are my favorite. 
Because I have had so many experiences within the past 4 or 5 weeks ( I cannot even keep track of time right now) I don't think I can list them.  Actually, it wouldn't be fair to you, it would sound more like bragging than explaining, because seriously it has been that good. 
Romagna, and in the distance the Adriatic Sea.
What I can say is that Italian's, on a whole, are so healthful and beautiful. They care about each product, how its grown, how it is treated, where is comes from, who grew it, why it is the right thing to use in one recipe versus another preparation. A small snippet of examples: They will not buy something if it isn't up to standard, they will not settle for less than what they are used to. One of the most amazing and heartwarming moments was when our lovely and amazing Chef Bruno Ruffini brought in herbs which he had picked from his mothers garden to fill with our Tortelli recipe for that day.  Not because we didn't have stuff to put in them, the school could have provided it, but those were the herbs we needed.  Herbs from a real garden. Herbs from a mom's garden. They probably tasted better for it. Honestly, I cannot think of a better place to get that kind of variety of greens than from the region they grow wild in. Additionally, as we all know, Italian mothers, more over grandmothers for that matter, are the best source for anything good in this world. We have guest chefs that come in and have us try produce, cheese and special oils just from their region, because they deem it the best. Gotta say though, the very best onions though are from Calabria. Hands down. 
Artisan Cheese making treasure to the world.
I could go on and on. I could wax poetically about cheese that I have eaten, or how my classmates and I so leisurely sample Michelin star food from chefs across this beautiful country; how each and every day I discover a much richer life and just by eating food. We have a professor that reminds me of my favorite teacher in 7th and 8th grade. He teaches us about the beauty of Italia. The beauty of each region, why they are all important to the patchwork map that makes up Italy. It amazes me how many pages I have filled in my notebook after his lectures come to a close. Just listening to this man with an amazing tan, dark red hair, glasses and whom is definitely Italian, but when he speaks english has a Scottish accent. Mr. Stefano Bently is an absolute treasure. I want him near by all the time to tell we why and how things came to pass.
I have so much to say, an I am sorry that I have been so absent, but when in a haze of total amazement and pleasure, one is not apt to keep up with things of this nature. I will do my best to keep you informed more in future, in fact probably regale you with tid-bits that have already passed. Best I can do is keep taking notes, keep my mind open and keep tasting. By doing this anyone can expand their mind in ways you may have never thought possible.
When you see me in the future, when you speak with me in person, I will have changed, and only for the better. My face may have aged, my dark circles may be deeper from long nights of Lombrusco and 12 hours day in the kitchen. But, this place has changed me.
And if you thought my food was good before, well
This life that I have lead, its been child's play up until now. The bar has been raised forever. This journey has just begun, and this land that I wish one day to call home has enchanted me. 
Heaven?
I will write more soon, cross my heart.
    Si si si si, sure sure sure sure. 

Sunday, May 23, 2010

H is for Humble Pie

Strawberry Napoleon - handmade puff pastry and
orange scented pastry cream. 
Tomorrow is my last and final day in the kitchens at FCI on Grand and Broadway.
Its bittersweet. I'm thrilled to be leaving for Italy in 5 days but I will miss New York.
This has been such a dream. I have gotten to see the seasons change, I have gotten to see the trees outside my lovely window grow green and light up the room with thier florescent bright color of spring each morning (minus a few rainy ones, but even those were music to my ears). It has been a delight, a pleasure and a total joy to know every day I am in the city of my dreams. My choosing.
Not only that but to be here to do something that is in my bones my blood my sweat. It couldn't be better. Accomplishing this much in 10 weeks, coming this far, having gained so much knowledge in such a short period of time, one might think it would be overkill, but I want more.
In a previous post I spoke possibly prematurely about the food culture here, having only experienced the tip of the ice burg. Because there is an enormous ever evolving culture of food here that has to be experienced to be able to even being to explain.  Although I still have yet to even crack this egg fully wide open, I definitely made a dent.

A friend and I were talking in class about this life we are leading now. We both questioned to each other, "...is this our lives right now? Seriously? How did we get so lucky" as we ate delicious morsels of food we had prepared that day in class. Spooning freshly made Almond Gelato in to our coffee cups, debating the consistency of a strawberry crystalized ginger sauce, rubbing sore shoulders post 30 minutes of zabione whisking, commenting on plating execution, development of flavor in a fig sauce reduction, topping tuna curdo with delicately crunchy Maldon sea salt, getting the correct crispiness on salmon skin, all the while learning and growing, becoming better and stronger forces in the kitchen.

This last week has been one of the best weeks so far. Not only because of what we made, which all the dishes, when executed to perfection, were sublime. But because it really pushed me to a level that, without this environment, I would never have been able to achieve on my own. So, I send an incredibly humble and special thanks to the Chefs that have given all of their knowledge and selves to us for the last 10 weeks. Chef Guido, Chef Haley and Chef Jessica, without whom I can assure you I wouldn't be in the mind set I am today. Thank you for everything.

Pere in Vino Rosso with Hand whipped Moscato Zabione
Speaking about determination, drive and dedication is a bit of a  habit of mine, but to be honest its more a means of me reminding myself to keep it up and stay positive. Even with forces out of your control. But those three chefs really kept me positive. The constructive criticism that each of them had for every single thing I presented, every single element on the plate; for each individual flavor, they let you know what to  tweek,  how to present a specific element on a dish, what to brighten more, what to develop longer and all and all serve up a big slice of humble pie for each of us, because everything can be refined. We are students, everything can get better.

3 Citrus Cannoli - Lime, Lemon and Orange with toasted Pistachios
There is a love and passion that goes into food knowledge and culture. I mean, we all need to eat, and some of us like to more than others. Some of us respect the art of cooking more than others, and others just can't hack it. For those who came to class everyday, ill prepared and for those who straight up didn't come to class at all, I don't know why they are here. There are a handful of us in our class that are truly excited about food, about becoming better, who actually CARE. To those of you I salute you, and you know who you are. The others, they know who they are too.

Sardines with Tagallini pine nuts, rasins and fennel 
Being a student in culinary school is more than just showing up, more than paying the tuition, it's about effort. It's about putting your best foot forward, and really pushing yourself to a different place and mind space. Reading everything you can, diving into a foreign ingredient head first. Asking smart questions of those who will give you smart answers. Going back to being able to take constructive criticism, and I say this humbly, I never received criticism I didn't agree with or couldn't learn from, and I also made an effort to learn from it. Others, well, they sulked, were angry, would pout and argue a point that was mute, because ultimately, they were wrong. That to me is just plain foolish. This whole experience is to learn from mistakes, so you don't make them in the future, thats what the Chef's are there for. They are not to be dismissed or mistreated.

My rant ends here, and I hope for those in my class who need and attitude adjustment that they find it in the next week, because I'm expecting a completely different world in Italy. A tougher world, in which we will be held to an even higher standard, so get ready for that kids.

Pan Seared Red Mullet with Pane Fritto scented with lavender
Asparagus, fava, strawberry panzanella with tarragon and champagne
vinaigrette 
Last night I catered with Nobu 57 at a charity event  for 750 people held at the MOMA (Museum of Modern Art in NYC). First of all, that was exciting in and of itself, but to top it off, Robert Di Nero and Bruce Springsteen quite possible ate food that I plated, among other "celebrities" which were just a wall away seated in the pristinely decorated lobby of the MOMA.

It is nights like that which remind me why I love to cook. People thrive on getting to eat the food of chefs who they respect. People pay great dividends of hard earned money to sample just a little bite of something that has been manipulated by that chef. We are an instrumental part of this world, of parties, of gatherings , of small tables, of dim lighting and ambience. Each day I see a dish or ingredient I have never seen of thought about before I get excited, I learned something new.

Each day I am humbled to know that I have so much more to learn, and I cannot wait to do so.

I also can't wait for you to taste my food.

PS - All of the dishes featured here are what I have made in the past few weeks in class (just one or two of a succession of over 30 different dishes probably. ) Wish you could have tasted them, they were all unbelievably delicious.



Monday, May 3, 2010

G is for Good Grief Girl and Greatness.

Its been a while. I know you're thinking "Good Grief Girl". It's been a while because I have been in school. A school that not only demands greatness, but demands great food and a quality in excellence that can only be described as demanding. In the best way. It is something I have always demanded for myself.

If one is thinking of joining the ranks of my fellow culinary students, you had best be ready for a wake up call. This is no walk in the park. However, for me at least, it has been one of the best experiences of my life. I wake up everyday alive with ideas and raring to go. Get my notes together, throw the most weather appropriate outfit on and head for the train. Upon arrival change as quickly as possible into "the uniform" (which are rather cute) and hurry to my food fate for the day.
   It sounds like a lot of rushing here and there, but the pace is what keeps me going. This lifestyle is not for everyone, which is why culinary school is a career choice, not typical as in college. You can choose if you want to major in pastry, lets say, but you can't choose your schedule. 
I for one, personally recall not taking some classes because they were late at night or really early. So,believe you me, those who haven't gone to college, or for that matter didn't finish, have been struggling with the timetable. Not to say that having gone to college is a measuring stick for everyone who walks in the door, but it is a formidable growth period in which respect is learned as well as organizational skills. 
As for greatness, there are few who achieve it. Artistically speaking you have your Monet, Gauguin, David, Chagall and  then of course Rodin, Picasso, Renoir and DaVinci (tip of the ice burg really). But to achieve greatness in the food world, well, it can be as if one is living up to the ranks of these great artists.I find myself recalling names of chefs like they painted the Mona Lisa. Instead of a brush stroke on a canvas, is a drizzle of some kind of reduction that just ever so delicately beads up on the plate. 
   I may sound silly, but a true chef has to be an artist to some degree. There is balance and harmony in food that is achieved through a very thorough searching of the senses. I am currently reading, among many other things, The Marchesi Co de. Gualtiero Marchesi, the founder of the school I will be attending in Italy, ALMA (and in less than a month!) writes about food the way that I want my inner dialogue to sound. As I am reading it I find myself  agreeing and even wondering if I was channeling him all along. 



For example.  While sitting at the Delancy/Essex JMZ stop over the weekend, sweating profusely, for the first time hating the subway and wishing that humidity was something God left off his list of things to do, I read this passage: 

      "The first duty of a cook is in any case to cook healthy foods, thus satisfying the physical demands of those who eat his food. The purpose of technique in the transformation of a given raw material in the kitchen is to reconcile artistic intention with the maximum digestibility....
       Technique must remain an instrument: when it becomes ostentation, it gets the upper hand and interferes in cuisine...technique must not prevail over art, which is a quest for emotion and beauty."
- Gualtiero Marchesi

 The book is thus far astounding. I devour each word. This man, who I can say in the very near future, I will have some kind of distant connection to, is a genius. I am so proud to have read this book. So, once again, a huge thanks to Chef Haley Stevens. 

 Many tests have come and gone, many a weekend of frolic has flitted away into a distant past. My birthday even went by in the blink of an eye. The city stirs with energy and life everyday, and I'm in it. Corny? Yep. Great. Yep.
But greatness, not quite there yet. Maybe someday.










Sunday, April 11, 2010

F is for Focaccia and Freakish amounts of Carbohydrates.

This week marks the end of the week in which I have eaten, tasted, re-tasted and devoured the most ridiculous amount of carbohydrates imaginable. We began with pasta fresca, moved into more pasta like pasta asciuta and pasta ripiena (dried and filled), then gnocchi with potatoes, with ricotta, with bread. The next day was risotto, as many times as we could make it in an attempt to master it (all'onda - like a wave so to speak). Tasting and tasting. Tweaking and re-tweaking, all the way through, each dish, each time, over and over. Mind you, I am NOT complaining about this. I have been given this magical license to do so. So, I will eat, as my waistline now shows. Damn you delicious food and your protocol for more butter and salt. The following day was a slight break, working with eggs.  However these little uovo's couldn't stop us from dipping crusty fresh, warm baguettes from the downstairs bread kitchens, into a luxurious poached yolk, which melted out onto a plate like paint escaping from a bucket.
Then of course, the mecca of all carb days, Pizza day, to end the week.
Why no pictures you ask? Well, first of all, my hands were perpetually greased with di olio extraverrgine d'oliva for one. Two, the pizza's were either devoured instantly, or shipped off to other floors of the school (in hopes of a trade for pastries, cakes, breads and the like) faster then I could whip my camera out to snap a shot. Our hot pizza stone oven cranked out about 30 pies that day, all of which were gorgeous. But all this pizza talk aside, I will say a certain pizza purist in Southern California still makes the best pies I ever had. I'm looking at you M and M.  

My favorite fun fact of the week came from our Chef Jessica stating, "Pizza is a triumph of imagination over a scarcity of ingredients." I couldn't agree more.
So my week of self loathing for eating all of these deliciously carbo-loaded fantasies came to  a close over a nice drink with some school friends, and a few fantastic slices of Focaccia with Sea Salt and Rosemary from a fellow student who really nailed their dough. Mine was more like a cardboard flavored version of his, which was donated to the compost.
So, this dream of making and eating all these starchy items for weeks on end. Mastering the Art of Fullness.  This, a craft or design of the gods. A fantastically bright beacon of light which has decided, fate and good fortune,  will shine on me? I get to eat Carbs? Loads of them?! Non-stop! And HAVE TO for quality control purposes?! (Sounds incredibly ideal right?)
Not such a dream for my jeans or personal satisfaction with myself. It has sent me straight to the gym in a full sprint.
So if you see me running down Lafayette to get to my destination of sweaty glory and hopefully back to a size 27, don't be alarmed, I probably just ate a mountain of Pasta Fresca alla saliva de burro or a new favorite Risotto con Fungi e Pomodoro. 


If you don't desire to make your pizza or focaccia at home, no judgements. There are loads, hundreds, millions of places where they serve up the best of the best. Here is a link to an article from the lovely and wonderful Magazine La Cucina Italiana all about where to go to get the best pizza imaginable across the globe. Brooklyn's own Motorino made the list!

The Perfect Pie - From La Cucina Italiana





Friday, April 2, 2010

E is for Eventually, it will all come together.

















The last few days at school were pasta days! 
Hard to beat good pasta. Really, who doesn't like pasta? It's addicting in its chewiness, salinity, sauce accompaniments, aroma and taste. It was also particularly exciting to learn the basics because now, I can practice without feeling like I'm lost in the dough. 
Lost in it "not coming together" properly. So, get ready for a pasta frenzy. You need it? I'll come make it. I wanna be the best. Which is a good thing considering, to master the art of it is quite a challenge and on top of that a coveted position at restaurants around the globe. But, I haven't been making it my whole life like most of those people have, so I have a lot to work on. 


Our Chef Haley Stevens whipped up a bunch of different little shapes to show us, and man was that a sight. Seriously, a total motivator.  


We began small, with simple fresh egg pasta or pasta all'uovo, then moved into colored pastas like pasta verde which gets is brilliant green from spinach, and of course the mystical black pasta, pasta al nero di seppia, which is colored with squid ink. Thirdly, was a pasta with just water and semolina flour, used to make a variety of shapes and sizes of pasta, but we practiced our Oreccchiette (little ears).  I personally like this one best because of the ease of mailability as well as it's "coming together" properties. 


Really, these have been great days to be in the kitchen. Flurries of activity, smiles and it puts everyone in a good mood when we get to work with our hands. However, the best was yet to come for some of us on Wednesday.


Jacques Pépin the Dean of Special Programs at our school, master French chef, friend of Julia Child, author of a few culinary bibles and absolute-all-around-genius held a demonstration at the International Culinary Center this afternoon. 
We rushed downstairs to get seats, but alas, we were forced to stand on stools in the back of the auditorium. He lectured, reminisced and regaled us with old tales and lovely fragrances from the stove at the helm of the room. Walking into the room as he removed the skin, deboned and essentially used every part of a duck, was actually quite amazing. Not only that, there were samples for everyone. 
The smell of the duck skin roasting in the oven, well, it was sublime. Excitement enveloped the room as he handed out tastes of duck breast ladled from a saute pan. Food made with his own hands. Once in a lifetime, you might say. 


















It has been all around extremely educational. Waking up at the crack of dawn to learn Italiano, rushing to the kitchens upstairs to begin pasta class, then hurrying down to watch a master chef prepare amazingly wonderful food. I've got to say, just like the pasta, "its all coming together" slowly, but surely. 


Thursday was Lasagna day, which also caused a buzz around the school. People were coming in with Tupperware for leftovers, and delivering the personal sizes to different departments cause some to nearly faint. Needless to say, it was pretty damn good. We used our fresh made Spinach Pasta, Bacemmella, Ragu di Carne and grated Parmigiano. Delicious, and really pretty color contrast. 


Here is a simple recipe for you to try! Making pasta can be easy, fun and fast, but practice will definitely make perfect. I'll be right along side you, believe me. 




Pasta Verde (Green Pasta)
Y. 1 pound of dough
By: The Italian Culinary Academy 
Ingredienti:
225 g (8 oz) 00 Flour - very low gluten flour from Italy
2 fresh eggs
70 g (2 1/2 oz)  blanched, chilled, drained fresh Spinach
Salt
10 g (1/3 oz) Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Semolina flour, for kneading and rolling




Procedura:
1. Food Processor method - yields a speckled pasta. 
    Place Eggs, spinach, salt and Olive oil in food processor bowl. Blend until smooth. Add Flour. 
    The dough should just be coming together in a ball. 


2. Knead on cold surface for 4 to 6 minutes until smooth. (like a baby's bottom, a term actually used in class today.)


3. Divide in half and wrap with plastic wrap immediately (or it will dry out) and refrigerate for 30 minutes, if not using right away. You can leave it out of the fridge if you will roll it out within the hour. Just let it rest of 30 minutes. 


4. If you have a pasta roller, roll it out starting on the highest setting, folding over 2 to 4 times, then moving down a setting, one at a time until you have reached the desired thickness. After which point, cut into desired sizes, shapes, etc. 


5. If you roll it out with a rolling pin, just make sure to have enough bench flour so it doesn't stick and rip.


6. Pot of boiling salted water, drop in for 1 to 2 minutes. 


7. Remove from water and put directly into sauce of your choice. Preferably a light in flavor sauce. We used butter and sage with a little pepper. But really, it's a personal thing. 






Eventually, it will all come together. I promise. (But here's hoping!)







Tuesday, March 30, 2010

D is for Developing Flavor that is "Divine" and "Delicate".




Ahh, Culinary School.
Are there finer words? Yes there are, and they come in the form of a compliment from your chef instructors.


Our group has been together in the kitchen for 10 sessions now. Slicing, dicing, drizzling, gobbling, straining, draining and stirring our way though lesson upon lesson; mixing and blending our way through the lovely cuisine of Italia. After many days of antipasti and 
perfecting our knife skills, or taillage (the practice of cutting vegetables into uniform size and shape) we have begun to pick up the pace, or at least some of us have.

I now have an enlightened respect for all those tiny little uniform pieces of vegetables I have found on my plate over my years of eating out. Making a perfect brunoise, jardinière, julienne, or dadi piccoli is not as easy as it looks. TRUST ME. This take A LOT of practice. I’m an amateur at best, but one day I will be able to chop with the best of them. It’s my holy grail so to speak. 

So today was soup/bean day. Perfect day for it, considering the weather here in New York is dreadful, rainy and cold.

So soups’ on? Yeah, I’m there.

The day before was stock day, which, I also have a new found respect for because making the perfect stock, is seriously a work of art. Anyway, the kitchen was lively today. Happy little culinary students, working to create inspired dishes, but mostly working to please the boss. (Both of whom, by the way, are awesome and absolute inspirations whom you will hear about more in the future.) 



However, the ultimate result is usually something not quite near the standard of the dish we are to most resemble in the end result. But I listened intently today to the words of our teachers and “developing flavor” was definitely key.

 The Development of Flavor should be a manual. You could go out and buy all the expensive ingredients in the world, and still not know how to develop flavor. The one thing I must stress, if you too desire to develop this skill of deepening the flavor of a dish, I recommend getting really comfortable with carmelization. It is a technique that is 
learned by practice, so go out there and try it.


Today we made Minestrone as well as another dish called Zuppa di Farro (Farro Soup). Both were beautiful to look at, but more so to eat.  The deliciousness of them was because of developing flavor. Both, however, called for different development of flavor, but used almost identical ingredients to do so. The minestrone was lighter in flavor and brighter in contrast, while the zuppa di farro was richer, deeper and more complex and earthy. Its always so interesting how the same vegetables, when prepared in a different manner, can come out tasting dramatically polar opposite.

Farro, incidentally is absolutely amazing for you! It is an ancient grain packed with protein, fiber and lots of  vitamins which are heart healthy, and it’s an environmentally conscious choice because a little goes a long way.

Although I loved both, I will only feature Minestrone, because, not only is it Veggie friendly, it was absolutely superb with a dollop of our fresh made pesto from the day prior. I recommend making your own pesto, but if you have to buy the jarred stuff, the Trader Joes brand is pretty good. Also you could get some excellent stuff from Dean and Deluca.

Minestrone con Pasta (Vegetable Soup with Pasta)
Recipe : International Culinary Academy – Italian
Yield : 6 to 8 servings

Ingredienti:
25 g. Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Onion, diced
1 celery stalk, diced
1 carrot, peeled, diced
¼ fennel bulb, diced
½ leek, light green and white parts, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
Pinch of red chili flakes
1 L Water. Or Vegetable Stock, warm
1 medium Russet Potato, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes
½ zucchini, seeds removed, diced
2 asparagus stalks, peeled, chopped into ½ inch pieces
¼ cup frozen peas
6 Green Beans or Haricot Vert, trimmed, and chopped into ½ pieces
2 plum tomatoes, remove skins and seeds, diced
10 g chopped fresh parsley leaves, no stems
2 large leave of Swiss Chard, stems removed, julienne leaves
70 g cooked white cannelloni beans, drained
100 g cooked pasta, preferably shells or Orecchiette
Fresh grated Grana Padano or Parmigianino cheese
Pesto (adding Pesto to the top makes it a Genoa preparation of the dish)
Salt and Pepper to taste

Procedura:
1. In a heavy bottom soup pot, heat Olive Oil on medium heat, add onions, celery, carrots, fennel, leeks, garlic and chili flakes and cook for about 4 – 5 minutes. Make sure not to brown vegetables.

2. Add Water, or stock, if using, and increase heat to medium high, add potato. Bring boil. Add Salt 
(about 1 tablespoon) and pepper (about 1 teaspoon.)

3. Lower heat to simmer and add zucchini, asparagus, peas and green beans. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

4. Add tomatoes, parsley, swiss chard, beans and pasta.

5. Let simmer gently for 1 to 2 minutes. Adjust seasoning.

6. Ladle soup into bowls, drizzle with pesto, Extra Virgin Olive Oil and sprinkle with grated cheese. Serve to those you love!  

AMAZING.

By the way - the chef's compliment's so far have been "delicate" and "divine". Which,
I mean, were sooooo exciting to hear. I know, it may not be that big of a deal, but hey, I'll take what I can get. So thank goodness for the D entry!